Background

Being known as an ethnically and culturally diverse country, Iran is among very few countries that are home to nomads. The largest tribes in Iran are Bakhtiaries, Qashqai, Turkmen, Shahsevan, etc. Each of these nomadic tribes has its history, tradition, hierarchy, social structure, dress, and of course food, including Layi Polo.

Qashqai people are mostly Turkic who live in various provinces such as Fars, Isfahan, and Khuzestan. However, the majority of them live in Fars province near Shiraz. As the name nomads suggest, these people migrate from one pristine place to another in search of a proper condition, including climate and pasture for their cattle.

Qashghaei nomads move across the Zagros mountain range. They enjoy a traditional lifestyle the same as their ancestors, relying heavily on natural elements and being in harmony with nature; something which is reflected in numerous aspects of their life including their choice of traditional dress and their cooking.

On the contrary to what is happening in the world with the technology explosion, Qashqai nomads are still keeping themselves as far away as possible from the new trends. Nature has had a profound effect on their choice of lifestyle. Just imagine living in a black tent produced by woven goat’s hair, waking up under the vast sky, drinking fresh milk and taking flocks to pastures, breathing fresh air, and being surrounded by nature. It would be great, but not many people can follow this traditional way of life. Nomads live a simple life in complete peace with their surroundings. They have learned to make the best use of basic materials available in their surroundings and then turn it into some useful and practical tools.

 

Layi Polo-Qashqai Nomad’s food

Since ancient times, natural conditions have been an undeniably important factor in determining people’s diet and their food culture. This is not an exception when it comes to nomads, as they are primarily affected by natural conditions. Their diet is pretty much dependent on their livestock ranging from dairy products to meat.

Besides their daily routine foods, Qashqai tribes have got unique foods that are super delicious. One of these foods which are served on special occasions is called layi polo. The food has different versions throughout the country, each one having a local element added to it.

The one that we are going to elaborate on is related to the Qashqai tribe and has goat’s meat as the main ingredient. In the Persian language, the name Layi Polo indicates that sth is put among rice layers (layi means within and polo means backed rice).

The food is usually prepared for honored guests or in weddings celebrations. As Ghashqai people’s cooking is nature-based, they carefully prepare the food over firewood (on a wood fire) as they don’t use modern ovens. Using fresh meat of sheep or goats that have been grazing up in the hills together with other fresh ingredients such as herbs and spices will double the taste of this food and give you a whole new experience in comparison with your previous definition of being yummy.

Ingredients

To make Layipolo we need the following ingredients:

-Persian rice: 4 cups

-mutton: 500gr (or goat’s meat)

-onion: 3

-prune: 200 gr

-walnut: 200gr

-Pomegranate seeds: 100gr (alternatively, you can use barberry)

– Raisin: 200 gr

-oil: as much as necessary

-salt, pepper, turmeric: as much as necessary

-saffron (optional)

Attention; you need to prepare saffron:

Grind saffron threads, mix them with small cubes of ice and let them soak in a cold place like a refrigerator for a few hours.

-Persian rice spices (a mix of cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, dried rose petals, and nutmeg which gives a special flavor to the steamed rice): 1 spoon (optional)

Reciepe

Step 1: steam the meat with onion then add salt to it and fry it in oil until both sides are fried.

Step2: wash the rice gently with water and drain it you need to repeat this phase until the water becomes clear, then soak the rice in water (it should cover the rice by 1 inch) and add one spoon of salt let it aside for about 3 hours (depending on rice quality). Fill a large pot with water and put it on the fire and let it boil then add at least 3-4 spoons of salt and a little oil, now you need to add the drained rice to the pot, wait until the rice drains pop up after 2-3 minutes the rice is ready to be drained with the usage of a colander.

Step 3: Prepare the onions; chop them and fry them in a pan with oil. When they are changed in color (fry until golden).

Step 4: put a pan on the fire (medium one) and add oil, fried onion (you need to save some for the rice), prune, raisin, pomegranate seed, walnut, and spices including turmeric, salt, pepper (both black and red ground pepper), finally add the pomegranate paste (sweet and sour one).

Step 5: Prepare a pot, add oil, and put bread (Nan Lavash in Persian) for Tahdig (crispy rice), then add a thin layer of rice to cover the bread, now put the meat on top of it, add the mixture to the pot. Mix the other parts of fried onion with the rest of the rice and add to the pot to cover the meat. You need to shape the rice into a pyramid. It helps the rice to cook better. Poke several holes in the rice and add a cup of water to it. Use the pot’s lid to cover it, put it on the heat, turn the heat up and wait until you hear the sound of water and oil mixing, then that’s the right time to put a flame tamer under the pot and lower the heat, let it cook for almost 1-1:30 minutes.

Summary

A food that has its origins among Iranian nomadic people. Layi Polo benefits from fresh ingredients and plays an inevitable part in Qshqai tribes’ festivities. The food gives a taste of their culture, and serving it for guests is an indication of the respect nomads hold for their honored guests.

BACKGROUND

If you are a fan of walnuts, like me, then this Iranian food is the best option for you, to quench your desire. Coming originally from the North part of Iran, the popularity of this food is not restricted to just the north, almost in all parts of the country you can find a local version of Fesenjoon. The food is made on different occasions, however, in north provinces specifically Guilan, having it as an inseparable part of wedding celebrations is a must.

Besides walnut, another unavoidable ingredient employed in Fesenjoon is pomegranate. Being known as Iran’s national fruit, using pomegranate in the food, indicates the significance of this stew among Iranians. Anaar (as the pomegranate is called in Persian), bears both cultural and religious significance for Iranians; both Persian poetry and art are filled with the presence of this fruit. It’s a common belief that Anaar is a fruit of heaven and reflects fertility.

Throughout the country varieties of Anaar can be found, with distinct tastes and colors. Making use of each type of these pomegranate creates different tastes in Fesenjoon. Generally, it can be said that, in the North part of the country, Fesenjoon is mostly sour, while in Tehran, it has a sour-sweet taste, and in cities such as Kerman and other central provinces people are inclined to have it sweet. Even in a small province like Guilan, one can find various recipes of Fesenjoon or as it is called in the local language “Aghuz Ghatogh”. For example in Rudbar, the food has a light brown-green color, in Astaneh Ashrafiye the color is almost red as they use tomato paste alongside pomegranate paste, and in Amlash you can find it dark brown.

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO MAKE Fesenjoon?

Let’s get familiar with some of the chief factors in the process of preparing this food in the north, since in this article I’m going to focus mostly on Guilan’s version of Fesenjoon, and give my recipe.

To have it as traditional as possible we need:

Gamaj: the special pot used in Guilan province

Walnut: people make sure to buy the local ones since they have better taste and produce more natural oil while cooking

Duck meat: it’s common to use other types of meat but if you want to have it like the local people then using duck is a proper option

Sour pomegranate paste: in the Northern provinces, people make their pomegranate paste or buy it from local markets in which the country women sell homemade ones.

Wild plum paste: originally it is provided from local markets which are quite common in every city of Guilan province

Nimkar (Namak yar): a traditional clay utensil used to grind walnut with the help of a unique stone called Moshte Sang.

Nowadays, not as common as it used to be, however, in small villages it is still people’s top choice to prepare walnut or other traditional things like Dalar(in local language) or Namak Sabz (in the Persian language).

Ingredients

Here I’m going to give my family’s recipe, one that my aunt taught me:

Ground walnuts: 1 cup

Duck meat: 300 gr (either chicken or red meat is acceptable too, in some parts of the country using meatballs are more popular)

Sour Pomegranate paste: ½ teaspoon (the exact amount depends on the sourness of the paste)

Plum paste: ½ teaspoon (usually sour or sour-sweet)

Tomato paste: ¼ teaspoon

Onion: 3 small-sized

Salt: to taste

Black pepper: a pinch

Turmeric: a pinch

Water: as much as necessary (usually 3-4 cups)

Ice cubes (small ones): 5-6

Attention: in this version of Fesenjoon we do not use any oil. The food relies heavily on walnut’s natural oil

To make the food we need 2 separate pots; one for cooking duck and the other one Gamaj or any other pot

Reciepe

Step 1:

First of all, pour one cup of water into a bowl and add ground walnut, mix them with your hands until the walnut is completely mixed with water. Then place a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl to strain the mixture of walnut and water (This will make our Fesenjoon has a smoother texture), pour it into the Gamaj.

Step 2:

Put duck meat in a pot, add water, and cut 2 onions into wedges. Put it over the heat and let it boil for 15 minutes. Then drain it and add the meat to the Gamaj. Pour 4 cups of water into the pot.

Step3:

Grind the last onion, Remove its water and add it to the mixture.

Step4:

Now, add turmeric, salt, and pepper. Put the Gamaj over the low heat. After about half a minute add pomegranate, plum, and tomato paste, and let it cook for approximately 5 hours. Meanwhile, you need to check it, and when the stew is getting thickened add one or two ice cubes each time. Repeat it 3-4 times during the food preparation. This method act as a way to extract walnuts’ oil more and more. In the end, you’ll have a stew with at least 2-3 centimeters of oil on top of it. In Guilan people usually let the stew cook slowly overnight.

Now you have a delicious persian meal. But be careful not to gain too much weight! Fesenjoon is a very nutritous and strong food.

Summary

Coming from the north part of the country, this food has found its way into every Iranians’ house. Almost everybody loves it and the reason lies in the fact that Fesenjan is made in different tastes, ranging from sweet to sour and sweet-sour. For those walnut lovers out there the food is a must.

History of Ghambar Polo:

Ghambar Polo, is originated from Shiraz, the capital of Fars province. A city known for its poetry, history, culture, and anything that Iranians can be proud of. Shiraz is a top choice for any foreigner visiting Iran, and also for Iranians, specifically in Ordibehesht (between April and May); as we believe Shiraz turns into a paradise this month.

Well, if you are not familiar with the Persian language you wouldn’t think that the name is a little strange or unique, but for Persian speakers, the name comes with a big question, what’s the reason for choosing such a name?

In the Persian language, Gham means sadness, and Polo is steamed rice thus the literal translation would be like; sadness on rice. In another pronunciation, we have got Qanbar which is an Old Iranian name for men, and Polo (Persian style steamed rice), and in both cases the name is bizarre. Besides having a unique name, Ghambar polo or Qanbar polo is among those foods that have different stories attached to them. According to some people, the name Ghambar polo indicates the deliciousness of the food or in other words, it suggests that by eating this food you will forget your sorrows, as all of them will be taken away. Others hold the idea that the food is named after the first person who cooked it.

This scrumptious food is among the top choices in festivities and has a sweet-and-sour taste. The color is a little dark due to the usage of Grape syrup, pomegranate paste, and raisins.

Let’s have a look at how to prepare Ghambar polo;

Ingredients:

Persian rice: 4 cups

Minced meat: 350 gr

Raisin: 80 gr

Walnuts: 80-60gr

Onion: 1

Grape syrup: 1, 1/2 tablespoon

Pomegranate paste: 3 tablespoon

Chickpea flour: ½ tablespoon

Salt, turmeric, pepper: to taste

Oil: as much as necessary

Brewed saffron

Method:

Step 1: first of all we need to make meatballs. Place the meat into a bowl, add grated onion (make sure to remove its water), turmeric, pepper, salt, and chickpea flour. Mix the ingredients until they become sticky. Roll them into small balls. Put a fry pan over medium heat, add little oil and a tablespoon of water, then put the meatballs in the pan and sauté them until brown on the outside. Don’t overdo it, meatballs will be cooked with rice later on.

 

Step 3: you need to prepare the rice. Wash the rice until the water runs clean, soak it for 3-4 hours and then drain it. Pour water into the pot, add some oil ad salt, Put it on high heat and let it boil. Now, add the rice, wait until the rice grains come to the surface (3-4 minutes). The rice needs to be parboiled.

Step 4: put the pan over medium heat, add a little oil, meatballs, and crushed walnuts, Sauté for 3 minutes and then add pomegranate paste and grape syrup. Mix them and Sauté for 4-5 minutes, at the end add raisin and 1-2 tablespoons of water and let them be for a few minutes, be careful to not burn them.

Step 5: at the final stage, pour oil in the pot, add some brewed saffron, and place your favorite Tahdig (for example potato slices). Add a layer of rice and top it with a part of your mixed ingredients. Repeat until the rice is finished. Put the pot over high heat, until you hear the sound of oil, put the lid on the pot.

Attention: cover the lid with a paper towel, this will absorb the moisture so your rice won’t be mushy.